Traces of the old stagecoach road from San Antonio to El Paso are dimly visible as a light vertical streak descending from a gap in the hills above Fort Lancaster . The ride over stony hills was treacherous enough; stops along the way, amid cactus and mesquite scrub, was often worse. As one 1850s traveler wrote of the Trans Pecos: "One of the most remarkable features of this inhospitable region is the hostility with which every plant bears arms ." |